Category Archives: 0119 White Regency/Empire dress

#0119 – The white Regency/Empire Dress – Part 1 from (1) to (7) – the bodice

As I recognized lately, I never made a tutorial with detailed pictures of this dress. So that’s going to be changed at this moment.

Ever since I released the sewing pattern, I’ve received questions about how it was made, from choosing the fabric to assembling those little hand-sewing details that make it special. Today, I’m finally taking you behind the scenes—step by step, with plenty of close-up photos—to show you exactly how this dress comes together. Whether you’re planning to sew the dress or just curious about the process, this tutorial will guide you through every part. Let’s get started!

If you’d like to sew the dress yourself, you can purchase the pattern in my shop or on Etsy and follow along as I make it.

The first dress I made was from some very old Swiss lawn fabric, which, in its previous life, was my grandma’s curtain. Because of its age, the fabric is now quite fragile, so I’ve decided not to wear the dress again in order to preserve it.

When searching online, I couldn’t find a fabric exactly like it—only plain white lawn or some embroidered cotton lawn options. In the end, I chose the embroidered cotton lawn. Its striped embroidery pattern made cutting the fabric a little more interesting, as I wanted to center the stripes at the front and ensure the pattern aligned seamlessly when sewn together.

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0119 – The white Regency/Empire Dress – Part 2 from (8) to (14) – The sleeves and skirt

Part 1 from (1) to (7) – the bodice

(8) Gather the sleeve head between the markings, make a box pleat at the bottom edge, and baste in place. Sew the sleeve seam, right sides together, and neaten with a flat felled seam.

(9) Fold the sleeve cuff lengthwise along the centerline, wrong sides together, and press the edge, reopen. Sew the cuff into a circle, right sides together. Pin the sleeve cuff to the sleeve’s bottom edge, right sides together, and sew. Trim back the seam allowances and press towards the cuff. Turn in the seam allowance along the loose edge and fold the cuff along the previously pressed edge, wrong sides together, lining up the edge with the cuff stitching. Sew with a felling stitch.  

(10) Sew the sleeve into the armhole, right sides together, matching all marks. Pull the gathering threads and spread the width evenly between Mark (5) and (6). Trim back the seam allowances to 3/8” (1cm) and neaten with an overcasting stitch.

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0119 – The white Regency/Empire Dress – Part 3 – The Spencer

Part 1 from (1) to (7) – The bodice

Part 2 from (7) to (14) – The sleeves and skirt

Let’s continue with the Spencer, a short jacket designed to add contrast and character to the simple white dresses of the Regency era.

I used a leftover piece of hibiscus-colored silk from my stash—you might recognize it from the Bridgerton-inspired dress I made. Since there wasn’t much fabric left, I had to piece the back and omitted the train because I didn’t have enough fabric left.

While reading online reviews of this pattern, I noticed that several of you mentioned the back being quite wide and not fitting snugly—a problem I also noticed during my first fitting. To fix this, I adjusted the back pattern pieces for a closer fit and added an additional closure with a placket to the new version of the pattern.

(1) Sew together all pieces from the lining, right sides together, leaving the shoulder seam open jet. Press the seam allowances towards the side back piece.

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