1980´s Skirted Jacket Part 4 – The sleeves and finishing details

Part 1 – The Cut

Part 2 – The Bodice

Part 3 – Lining and Peplum

It´s time to get finished! Just the sleeves and some details are missing. I decided to take the smaller lining sleeves, still enough pouf for my purposes. This is the canvas for the sleeve hem, cut on the bias and shaped into a slight curve with the iron.

After sewing the back sleeve seam, line up the canvas with the hemline and baste in place, and catch stitch to the seam allowances. Sew the front sleeve seam while folding the canvas to the side. Press open the seam allowances and smooth out the canvas over the seam, and catch stitch in place. Turn in the hem allowance and catch stitch to the canvas.

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A 1890´s to 1910 Bustle Pad

About 1885 the large bustles of the previous decades started to disappear. That didn´t mean, that the bustle itself disappeared completely. To achieve the fashionable shape, many women helped out with smaller bustle pads, giving the body the desired shape, featuring a small waist and wide hips. The difference is obvious! These bustle pads were worn until about 1910, when the silhouette became slender.

 

Let´s sew your own bustle pad with this free pattern and tutorial!

Bustle Pad US 8-18 (EU 34-44) Bustle Pad US 20-30 (EU 46-56)

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#0314 Shirtwaist Tutorial – The sleeves, hem and finishing details

Part 1 – Adjusting the pattern

Part 2

Ok, time to make the sleeves, again a bit different, than described in the instructions, with the side seam of the blouse still open!

I made the placket as described in the instructions, with a strip of fabric, sewn to the vent with a very narrow seam allowance. While sewing, I pulled the vent straight, trying to avoid folds when sewing round the corner.

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#0314 Shirtwaist Tutorial – Sewing the blouse

Part 1 – Adjusting the pattern

Let´s start to sew the blouse step by step, but not exactly the way I described in the instructions, showing you how to do some things different! This time I decided to make the turn-down collar and make collar and cuffs from the same fabric as the blouse.

First of all is to cut all the pieces from the fashion fabric, transferring all the marks carefully. Working with symmetrically printed fabrics, it´s better to follow the printed pattern than the grainline to make the folds and the button band. Believe me, that print drove me crazy when I started sewing.

On the right side, I cut off the front along the dotted (green) line and made an extra button band – see first post.

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#0314 Shirtwaist Tutorial – Adjusting the pattern

Hi there again! This time I made a tutorial for my Shirtwaist pattern #0314 with folds. Some of my customers reported problems with the narrow collar and how to adjust the neckline if you´d need a lager collar.

First of all, the most important thing is to make a mock-up for the collar. Compared to modern collars, often cut very wide and worn open, this collar has to sit tight around your neck, like a men´s shirt collar.

Making the collar wider, you´d have to widen the neckline accordingly and I think at that point many of you´re having problems, finding the neckline on the pattern because of the folds.

Take the front pattern from paper and make all the folds indicated on the pattern. From that point it will be easy to make all the changes needed.

Using a 5/8” (1,5cm) seam allowance, draw the stitching line and measure.

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