Author Archives: Rotraut

#0316 Men´s Cycling Breeches Part 2 – Steps (6) to (10)

Part 1 – Steps (1) to (5)

(6) Side pockets V1 (the accurate way with pattern pieces #5):

Line up the pocket facing (#5b) with the side edges of the top and undersides, right sides together, matching marks (1) and (2). Sew exactly between the marks with a seam allowance of 1/2” (1,3cm) – please ignore the wrong position and material of the interlining, I replaced that later. Trim back the seam allowance of the facing only, slanted at the end of stitching, to reduce bulk, and fold to the side.

Line up the top and undersides along the side seam, right sides together, matching the marks and sew with a seam allowance of 5/8” (1,5cm). Sew from the top, until reaching mark (4), skipping the pocket opening between (1) and (2) . Notch the seam allowance of the undersides at mark towards the end of stitching and press open the seam allowances.

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#0316 Men´s Cycling Breeches Part 3 – Steps (11) to (18)

Part 1 – Steps (1) to (5)

Part 2 – Steps (6) to (10)

(11) Turn the left leg the wrong way out.  Insert the right leg into the left one, right sides together, and line up along the crotch seam. Sew the crotch seam by hand, using a buttonhole thread or at least a double thread, starting at the center back and stopping exactly at mark (3) – don´t catch the waistband interfacing at the center back. Turn the right way out and press open the seam allowances. Trim back the seam allowances from point (3) to the inner leg seam to about ¼” (7mm). Stitch the seam allowances of the left topside to the fly placket.

At first glimpse, lining the fly-shield seems a bit complicated, maybe the pictures here will bring more clarity. Fold the shield towards the topside, right sides together, and line up the lining with the seam allowance of the topside, the right side of the lining faces the wrong side of the fashion fabric. Sew in the ditch, starting at the top, until reaching the inner leg seam. Fold the lining around the seam allowances and again, stitch in the ditch.

Smooth out the lining over the fly-shield and turn in the seam allowance along the side edge, trim back if needed. When reaching the bottom of the shield, lead the lining towards the inner leg seam, covering the raw seam allowances of the crotch. Fell stitch in place. My lining was a bit too narrow at the bottom, so the tape is showing.

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Completing the Vintage Cycling Ensemble: Crafting a Classic Train Driver’s Hat – Sewing Pattern #0224

In our previous posts, we dived into the timeless appeal of a vintage three-piece cycling outfit, comprising the Norfolk jacket, cycling breeches, and matching waistcoat (ok, not quite finished jet, but in progress).

Now, to complete the ensemble and add that perfect finishing touch, we’re moving over to the world of headwear, with a tutorial on crafting your very own train driver’s hat or cap. This accessory not only evokes nostalgia for the 20th century but also offers practicality and style for any cycling adventure. Plus, by using the remaining fabric from your ensemble, you can achieve a cohesive look that’s both bespoke and charming.

Grab your free pattern here: Train Drivers Hat

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Spotlight on Pattern #0416 – The Norfolk Jacket! – Part 1 – Considerations

We are thrilled to announce that we’ve revealed our revamped sewing pattern, #0416 – The Norfolk Jacket! Get ready for an in-depth showcase as we share detailed instructions and everything you need to know to master the art of creating tailored men´s garments. Whether you’re a seasoned stitcher or a sewing enthusiast embarking on a new project, the Norfolk Jacket promises a captivating journey into historical men’s fashion.

Find the sewing pattern via my website: #0416 1900s Norfolk Jacket

Find printable patterns for the lining pockets here: Small / Large

In the world of classic men’s clothing, the “Norfolk Jacket” occupies a special place as a jacket for many occasions. Originating as a young men’s jacket in the 1860s, it gained early popularity within the Rifle Corps of the Volunteer Movement and later became a symbol of comfort for country sports like riding and hunting.

As the jacket transcended social classes, it evolved into a versatile garment that was popular with cycling enthusiasts at the turn of the century. Advertising at the time highlighted the jacket’s adaptability, allowing for customization in terms of style and fabric, from tweed to linen.

This interpretation of the Norfolk jacket is rooted in the historical patterns found in J. P. Thornton (1885): The International System of Garment Cutting, London. and W. D. F. Vincent (around 1900): The Cutters Practical Guide to Jacket Cutting and Making, London.

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Unveiling the Enhanced BlackSnailPatterns #0416 “Norfolk Jacket” Sewing Pattern – Part 2 – Step (1) – (8)

Part 1 – Considerations

Now that we’ve laid the groundwork with considerations and preparations, let’s seamlessly transition into the practical aspect of bringing your Norfolk jacket to life. Part 2 and further, focuses on the step-by-step sewing process, where we’ll meticulously guide you through each stage.

As you progress through the project, you may come across some minor adjustments or deviations when looking at the pictures. These small changes are a part of the pattern-making process, when choosing a better option for you later.

(1) After you´re satisfied with your mock-up, cut all pieces from fashion fabric, lining, and canvas. Cut the lining as described in the instructions, the back on fold with the grey strip added and some extra width at the sleeves.

Cut the back lining on fold
Add some extra width at the sleeve lining

(2)Transfer all the marks and notches, mark with chalk on the wrong side, and “copy” the lines to the mirror piece. Baste along the lines to mark the position of the pocket and strips on the right side.

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