Part 1 General Information
Part 2 Fronts
The sewing pattern is available via Etsy.
Gather the sleeve head with two rows of a running stitch. Pin into the armhole, right sides together, spread the width evenly between the marks and sew.
Prepare the yokes. The sewing pattern shows the yoke as one piece without seams; here I made it from two pieces, because the yoke often was made from pieced rests. Turn in all seam allowances, except at the side seam. Notch were needed, at corners and curves.
The sewing pattern is available via Etsy.
I want to start with a simple shirt without a bib front. The picture shows a shirt from my collection. A bar covers the end of the button tab, underneath the bar the shirt front is laid into a box pleat. The bar can be shaped as desired, rectangular, or as shown on the picture.
Cut the front of the shirt T-shaped, take care to cut exactly on the straight grain. Fold both edges twice to form the button tabs and topstitch.
Line up the two tabs along the center front, left side is on top. Lay the excess fabric of the front into a box pleat. Fix the box pleat with some stitches to the end of the button tab. Take a piece of fabric for the bar, turn in the seam allowance and place on top of the button tab end. Attach with a prick stitch or a fell stitch. Cover the end of the button tab on the inside with a piece of fabric too.
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Before I´ll show you how to sew an early Victorian men´s shirt, I want tell you a bit about the little but obvious differences between Victorian and Georgian men´s shirts.
During Georgian and Regency era, a shirt always was a quite simple piece of clothing, made from rectangular pieces. Gussets provided sufficient movement at the shoulders and underarms. Excess width was gathered along the neckline and sleeves. Nearly nothing of a shirt was visible underneath a high-necked waistcoat, except from the jabot, made from fine fabric.
Men´s Shirt with Jabot and high stand-up collar about 1800 / Continue reading
I decided to add seam allowance to my sewing patterns, because I think it´s easier and more comfortable for you to work with.
Why do I use a seam allowance of 5/8“ (1,5cm) in my sewing patterns, although after sewing I would tell you to trim it back? This is a question I´ve been asked many times. Continue reading
At the same time launching my new sewing pattern, I want to show you many pictures from cunstructing the chemise and sleeve puffs.
These two pieces of clothing often keep unattended, but they complete the right look of an 1830´s Dress.
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