An 1830´s Frock Coat Part 3

Part 1 

Part 2 

The sleeve cuff shown here is different to the cuff described in the sewing instructions, but similar.
Sew together top and under sleeve along the front sleeve seam and attach the interlining with basting treads. In the sewing instruction, the interfacing reaches the bottom edge. Underneath you can see the cuff pined along the bottom edge, right sides together. I decided to use the fashion fabric for the cuff with raw edges to avoid bulk with that heavy fabric.

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For that reason I used a cotton fabric for lining the cuff. The cuff lining is cut with seam allowances, these are turned in and pressed. The two layers are joined narrow by the edge with small stitches. Better than shown on the pics would have been to stitch down the vent facing (left side) and seam allowance (right side) first.IMG_4434IMG_4437

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An 1830´s Frock Coat Part 1

My new sewing pattern is now available on Etsy. Therefore I want to show you some additional pictures to facilitate your sewing process. I´d try to show you historical sewing techniques and processing, so again many hand stitches will be necessary.
The instructions and pictures here in my blog are deviating from the illustrations in the sewing instructions, because the sewing pattern still was under the way at that time. My Frock Coat has got a lapel and collar from a cheaper pile fabric, this can be basted compared to real velvet, without showing stitching lines after removing the basting threads.
The lapel isn´t cut on, but sewn on as usual at that time.

 

 Here you can see the front part, with the already sewn on lapel. The interfacing is lined up with the front and basted. You barely can see the pad stitched lapel.

 

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1830´s trouser pocket

Continuing my 1830s men´s pattern collection, it´s time for matching trousers, suitable to wear with the 1830´s Tailcoat and shirt. In general trousers are easier to sew than the coats, just some pocket details are more complex.  I´ll show and explain that details her in this tutorial with lots of pictures. I choose the US size 38 (EU 48).

 

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After cutting all pattern pieces, I marked the marks corresponding to the size chosen. Re-check your marks, the red arrow points on the mark I did wrong at the first time.

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Construction of a 1830-60 men´s shirt Part 4: buttonholes

Part 1  General Information 
Part 2  Fronts 
Part 3  Sleeves and collar 

The sewing pattern is available via Etsy.

Now the shirt is already finished, just the buttonholes and buttons are missing. An 1830-60 shirt has three vertical buttonholes at the button tab and one vertical buttonhole at the collar. If you prefer e detachable collar instead of a stock collar you have to make small vertical buttonholes on both collar sides and one vertical buttonhole at the center back of the collar. The collar will be attached with collar studs.

However, how to sew a buttonhole by hand? First mark the position of your buttonholes, they should be about 1/16” -1/8” (2-3mm) longer than the diameter of your button. I know, it isn´t historically accurate, but I prefer to add some Fray Check along the marked cutting line. First it prevents the fabric from fraying, second is stabilizes the edges for easier sewing. Let´s start! Cut open the buttonhole with scissors, better with a punching tool.

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