This is my padded lining, the fronts and back ready prepared. I had to be very careful pressing the seam allowances, as the polyester fibers where melting when pressing with an average heat.
This is the front lining with the dart just basted, to get some ease later. As you can see, I stopped basting about 2” (5cm) from the bottom edge as I´ll have to attach the skirt or peplum later.
It´s time to get finished! Just the sleeves and some details are missing. I decided to take the smaller lining sleeves, still enough pouf for my purposes. This is the canvas for the sleeve hem, cut on the bias and shaped into a slight curve with the iron.
After sewing the back sleeve seam, line up the canvas with the hemline and baste in place, and catch stitch to the seam allowances. Sew the front sleeve seam while folding the canvas to the side. Press open the seam allowances and smooth out the canvas over the seam, and catch stitch in place. Turn in the hem allowance and catch stitch to the canvas.
About 1885 the large bustles of the previous decades started to disappear. That didn´t mean, that the bustle itself disappeared completely. To achieve the fashionable shape, many women helped out with smaller bustle pads, giving the body the desired shape, featuring a small waist and wide hips. The difference is obvious! These bustle pads were worn until about 1910, when the silhouette became slender.
Let´s sew your own bustle pad with this free pattern and tutorial!
Bustle Pad US 8-18 (EU 34-44) Bustle Pad US 20-30 (EU 46-56)
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Part 1 – Adjusting the pattern
Ok, time to make the sleeves, again a bit different, than described in the instructions, with the side seam of the blouse still open!
I made the placket as described in the instructions, with a strip of fabric, sewn to the vent with a very narrow seam allowance. While sewing, I pulled the vent straight, trying to avoid folds when sewing round the corner.
Part 1 – Adjusting the pattern
Let´s start to sew the blouse step by step, but not exactly the way I described in the instructions, showing you how to do some things different! This time I decided to make the turn-down collar and make collar and cuffs from the same fabric as the blouse.
First of all is to cut all the pieces from the fashion fabric, transferring all the marks carefully. Working with symmetrically printed fabrics, it´s better to follow the printed pattern than the grainline to make the folds and the button band. Believe me, that print drove me crazy when I started sewing.
On the right side, I cut off the front along the dotted (green) line and made an extra button band – see first post.
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