Next day I started to prepare the fronts from fashion fabric and marked the pocket opening on the right fabric side with basting threads. For reinforcement I basted a rectangular piece of interfacing to the wrong fabric side, covering the pocket opening.
This was a quick and dirty pocket, this sloppy opening will be covered by the welt later.
Now I took the front pieces from lining fabric and sewed on the shoulder pieces, right sides together, as common on late 18th century waiscoats. To finish the seam, I trimmed back the seam allowance of the shoulder piece, folded over the larger seam allowance of the front and felled down the edge as mentioned before.
A few years ago, I started this waistcoat project for my husband for a visit of the Castle of Delitzsch (Germany). It was summer and I decided to sew the waistcoat completely by hand outdoors, enjoying my garden while sewing. However, the best thing was that I did not forget to make as many pictures of the sewing process as possible. And here we go!
I prepared all pieces from fashion fabric and lining in my sewing room and moved then on my terrace, where I lined up the backs, right sides together, and stitched along the center back seam, starting at the top until reaching the top of the vent. To make a flat felled seam, I trimmed back the seam allowance of the right back to ¼” (5mm) from top to the vent and notched the seam allowance of the left back to fold over the trimmed back seam allowance of the right back. Without an iron available in the garden, I folded the edges with the nail of my thumb. I felled down the edge with small stitches, barely visible on the right fabric side.
It´s time to finish the dress and to close the center front. But first, mark all lines for flounces and appliques along the hemline on the right fabric side, mark half, quarter and eighth to match the marks on the flounce.
To close the center front below the button tab, place the left side on top, overlapping the right side. Baste along the left front edge from the right fabric side through all layers (pins), starting at the end of the button tab, ending at the hem. Turn the dress to the wrong side.
This time I´ll show you how to sew the cuffs and make a piped armhole.
Take the cuffs and Flatline with cotton fabric. I already prepared the bias binding with a bias tape maker, you can buy them in different widths, I used the 12mm from Clover.
Open out the bias binding; with the right sides together, line up with the top edge of the cuff and pin in place, clip at corners to get some extra width. Sew along the crease of the bias binding and fold the bias binding over to the wrong side of the cuff. Fell stitch in place along the stitching line and press.
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