An 18th century men´s shirt – Part 3 Ruffles, Stock and Neckerchief

Part1 – Neck and Collar

Part2 – Sleeves

(12) Cut stripes from a sheer fabric for the ruffles, about 1 ½ to 2 times as long as the edges to be trimmed and about 2 ¾” (7cm) wide. Roll hem the two short and one long edge and gather the remaining raw edge.

Take the cotton tape, cut to the length of the edge to be trimmed, and fold in half lengthwise, turn in a narrow seam allowance along the short edges. Slide the gathered edge of the ruffle between the two layers of the tape and stitch in place through all layers. The ruffles are attached to the inside of the neck opening and cuffs with a running stitch and can be removed for washing easily.

(14) Take some scrap linen from the shirt for the straps, cut and fold in half, right sides together. Turn in the seam allowance (3/8” (1cm)) along the edges meeting the stock. Sew, trim back the seam allowances, and turn the right way out, press.

Take the rectangle for the stock and roll hem two opposite edges. Gather along the remaining edges to fit the straps. Slide the gathered edges between the two layers of the prepared straps, lining up the edge of the strap with the stitching line of the stock. Fell-stitch in place every single pleat the same way as you did before with the collar and cuffs.

Depending on the buckle you´re going to use, make button holes or eyelets  to hold the buckle.  

(14) For a simple cravat or neckerchief, cut a strip of sheer fabric, with a width of about 12” (30cm). The length of the strip depends on whether a bow or just a knot is preferred. For a simple knot, estimate the neck circumference two times plus 32” (80cm). For a bow, add an additional 20” (50cm) and cut the ends at an angle of 45°. The best would be to cut the strip just in one piece. If you have to piece the cravat, provide the seam somewhere at the center back (flat felled seam). Roll-hem the cravat or neckerchief all the way around.