Tag Archives: tailoring

#0418 – The 1830´s Frock Coat – Part 1 – first considerations and point (1) to (4)

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Hi there! Roti from Black Snail Patterns here. I’m thrilled to announce that we’re giving our popular 1830s Frock Coat sewing pattern a major upgrade. This classic garment has long been a favorite among historical costume enthusiasts, and now we’re making it even better.

We’ve listened to your feedback and enhanced the pattern with clearer, more detailed instructions. This is not a beginner sewing pattern. However, we tried to explain tailoring terminology in a way that, with sufficient motivation and enthusiasm, everyone could understand.

Get the completely updated pattern here:

In this post, I’ll walk you through the updates we’re making:

  • Expanded step-by-step instructions
  • New troubleshooting tips for common challenges
  • Additional pictures for complex construction steps and period-accurate piped edges.

These improvements will help you achieve stunning results, whether you’re creating a historically accurate costume or adapting the Frock Coat for a contemporary twist.

Join me as we explore the refined details of this 19th-century classic and uncover the techniques that bring it to life. Let’s make historical sewing not just accessible, but truly enjoyable for everyone. Ready to dive in? Stay tuned as we delve into the fascinating details of this classic garment and the techniques used in its construction.

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#0418 – The 1830´s Frock Coat – Part 2 – point (5) to (9) 

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Part 1 – point (1) to (4)

(5) Time to prepare the fronts: Take the canvas of the front and lapel, and trim back the seam allowances along the abutting edges, to sew together the pieces edge to edge, using a zig-zag stitch. Stop sewing exactly at the collar notch (x). Underlay the seam with a strip of bias tape (cotton). This method reinforces the joint and helps distribute stress across the garment.

Take the fronts from the fashion fabric and stretch the shoulder. Sew the lapel to the front, right sides together, and stop sewing exactly at the collar notch (x). Press open the seam allowances, and trim back the seam allowances at the collar notch.

Baste the front canvas to the wrong side of the front, lining up the edges. Start stitching centered down the front and continue along the front edge, following the roll line until reaching the shoulder. Give the front some ease while basting by stretching the chest slightly and simulating the body with a tailor’s ham or a pillow. Lastly, baste along the armhole and the side seam. Baste about 2” (5cm) from all edges. 

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#0418 – The 1830´s Frock Coat – Part 3 – point (10) to (18) 

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Part 1 – point (1) to (4)

Part 2 – point (5) to (9)

(10) Sew the shoulder seam, right sides together, easing in the extra width of the back. Fold the front-facing and front canvas to the side while sewing. Press open the seam allowances and place the front canvas on top.

Let´s move over to some other tricky details with velvet and piping!

Mark the stitching line along the neckline, and baste together the layers (canvas and front) inside the seam allowance, right beside the stitching line. Trim back to 3/8” (1cm). Smooth out the front-facing over the shoulder seam towards the center back and mark the center back. Line up the front facings along that line, right sides together, and sew. Trim back the seam allowances and press open. That was the easy part.

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Spotlight on Pattern #0416 – The Norfolk Jacket! – Part 1 – Considerations

We are thrilled to announce that we’ve revealed our revamped sewing pattern, #0416 – The Norfolk Jacket! Get ready for an in-depth showcase as we share detailed instructions and everything you need to know to master the art of creating tailored men´s garments. Whether you’re a seasoned stitcher or a sewing enthusiast embarking on a new project, the Norfolk Jacket promises a captivating journey into historical men’s fashion.

Find the sewing pattern via my website: #0416 1900s Norfolk Jacket

Find printable patterns for the lining pockets here: Small / Large

In the world of classic men’s clothing, the “Norfolk Jacket” occupies a special place as a jacket for many occasions. Originating as a young men’s jacket in the 1860s, it gained early popularity within the Rifle Corps of the Volunteer Movement and later became a symbol of comfort for country sports like riding and hunting.

As the jacket transcended social classes, it evolved into a versatile garment that was popular with cycling enthusiasts at the turn of the century. Advertising at the time highlighted the jacket’s adaptability, allowing for customization in terms of style and fabric, from tweed to linen.

This interpretation of the Norfolk jacket is rooted in the historical patterns found in J. P. Thornton (1885): The International System of Garment Cutting, London. and W. D. F. Vincent (around 1900): The Cutters Practical Guide to Jacket Cutting and Making, London.

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Unveiling the Enhanced BlackSnailPatterns #0416 “Norfolk Jacket” Sewing Pattern – Part 2 – Step (1) – (8)

Part 1 – Considerations

Now that we’ve laid the groundwork with considerations and preparations, let’s seamlessly transition into the practical aspect of bringing your Norfolk jacket to life. Part 2 and further, focuses on the step-by-step sewing process, where we’ll meticulously guide you through each stage.

As you progress through the project, you may come across some minor adjustments or deviations when looking at the pictures. These small changes are a part of the pattern-making process, when choosing a better option for you later.

(1) After you´re satisfied with your mock-up, cut all pieces from fashion fabric, lining, and canvas. Cut the lining as described in the instructions, the back on fold with the grey strip added and some extra width at the sleeves.

Cut the back lining on fold
Add some extra width at the sleeve lining

(2)Transfer all the marks and notches, mark with chalk on the wrong side, and “copy” the lines to the mirror piece. Baste along the lines to mark the position of the pocket and strips on the right side.

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