Category Archives: Empire / Regency

Sewing Pattern #0422 – a quick illustrated Guide

Welcome back for a new sewing pattern! I made this dress last year in autumn to attend two intimate and small events, a soiree and a Napoleonic ball.

It was not my intention to make a Bridgerton inspired dress, I just fell in love with this extant gown https://www.photo.rmn.fr/archive/15-523923-2C6NU0AOS8H16.html from the Musée national des châteaux de Malmaison & Bois-Préau in France.     

I´m sorry, that I didn´t made lots of pictures during the sewing process because I was in a hurry, I made a mistake when cutting the skirt, but I love the result. Due to the newest release of Bridgerton Season 2 I don´t want to withhold this pattern from you.

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Let´s start with sewing! Just some considerations before we´ll start. Take care that there are no extra pattern pieces for the skirt. The skirt is made from panels of fabric, cut into rectangle and trapezoidal pieces. The following diagram shows how to cut the skirt from different fabric widths.

This is another overview how to estimate the width of your panels. The measurements do not necessarily have to be observed exactly. The width of the front panel should be 1,5 times the length from mark ② to mark ② on the waistband. The side panel should measure about 2 times the length from mark ② to mark ③, and the back panel about 4 times from ③ to ④. (When sewing a larger size with 35” (90cm) wide fabric, you´ll have to piece one of the side panels as shown on the diagram – piecing is period). The remaining fabric strips will be used for the box pleated frill at the hem.  

(1) The importance of a mock-up: Quite sloppy pics of my mine. You can see the additional length at the front to fit over the bust.

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#0319 Empire Spencer and Redingote about 1815 – Tutorial

Recently I was asked about a tutorial regarding to my sewing pattern #0319, the Empire Spencer or Redingote. So far there have only been instructions for the muff, the cap and the soutache embroidery. I found lot´s of pictures I took during the sewing process I want to share with you, follwing the instructions step by step.

Perhaps you´ll be missing some of the details that can be found in the instructions, because this tutorial is just intended to supplement my sewing pattern, available through my Etsy shop, with additional pictures.

First step always should be a mock-up, fitted to be worn over a dress, made of a fabric similar to your fashion fabric.

Cut all pieces from fashion fabric, interfacing and lining as shown on the cutting diagram. Mark all darts and notches. A seam allowance of 5/8” (1,5cm) is included in my patterns.

Step (1) – How to prepare the fronts, sewing the darts, basting the interfacing and the cotton tape. Important, never reject the help of your pets!

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How to attach soutache with the sewing machine

When I first planned my redingote it seemed there was no time left to do all that soutache embroidery I wanted to do. Sadly the event I made the redingote for was canceled, but fortunately now I had enough time. As I am a little bit lazy I was searching for a method to attach about 70 meters of soutache braid neatly to the skirt.

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A Muff Tutorial (Georgian, Regency, Victorian….)

I muff is an accessory which you never should omit wearing an historical fall/winter costume. The advantages are obvious. You´ll never get cold hands and you can hide all that things a modern women needs, like your car keys and of course your cell phone! With a cord or a loop attached to secure the muff around your neck or wrist you get your hands free.

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