Promised in spring, now the time has finally come. A pattern for a Victorian jacket (paletot) based on a model from “The Bazaar” from 1876. This is a small guide with many pictures intended to support the sewing pattern.
First, cut out all pieces, the lining for the back piece ends at waistline. The pleats will be lined with a separate stripe of fabric. The back, side back and side front are flatlined with lining fabric and processed like one layer in the further. Serge the edges together, that later on nothing will slip while sewing. Interline collar, placket and outer cuff.
At corners of back and side back (waistline) mark seam allowance exactly and sew side back to back, end at markings. Open seam allowance. Sew side of pleat to side part, be careful to stay within seam allowance meeting seam at upper edge. Open seam allowance and fold pleats, press. Sew side front to side back, open seam allowance, seam at center back is still left open. Close shoulder seam.
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Prepare embellishment for the collar. Take your collar pattern piece and mark triangles, ad 3/8″ (1cm) seam allowance and copy. Number pieces. Cut 2xvelvet + 2xlining each triangle. Sew velvet and lining, right sides together, at the point use a small stitch. Leave short edge open. Trim seam allowance, turn inside out and press.
With velvet side up topstitch 5/8” (1,5cm) distant from edge, topstitch again at a distance about 1cm (width of presser foot) until the triangle is filled.
Attach triangles to collar piece. Topstitch with your sewing machine between edge and first stitching. Sew along edges with small hand stitches. The triangle at the center back will be attached later.
4. Sew collar to side front, fold seam allowance toward collar, trim the inner part of seam allowance.
Sew back parts together, take care to match collar seam exactly. At the bottom stop exactly in the corner at waistline. Open seam allowance and sew the last triangle to center back of collar.
Attach velvet ribbon close to collar seam.
Close peplum at center back and open seam allowance. Take your stripe of lining and baste it to upper edge of pleats, fold pleats and press. Turn in seam allowance at the sides of strip and sew with a felling stitch to seam allowance of outer fabric.
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