I found a lovely fabric in a marvelous color. But what would it look best? I decided to make a early bustle dress. First I started with a basic skirt.
The upper fabric will be lined with cotton fabric and worked as one layer. Historically not correct I neatened the edges with my serger.
The skirt has a front and back part and two gores each side. At the left side I made a pocket between the two gores, at the right side the closure with a placket.

 

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The front part and side gores are joined smoothly to the waistband, the back part is shirred to cartridge pleats and sewn closely to the waistband.
For the cartridge pleats fold seam allowance of back part to the inside and iron. Mark depth of folds and sew with a strong thread. Two rows with a distance of 1cm (3/8”) are enough. First I chose 1cm for the depth of my pleats but later on I decided to make the pleats 1,5cm (5/8”) deep for fitting the waistband.

 

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At the waistband do not use any interlining. Sew together upper fabric and lining right sides together and turn inside out. The seam allowance of the lower edge would be folded to the inside of the waistband.
Historically correct fold the seam allowance of the upper edge of the skirt to the inside and iron. Lay on the waistband to the upper edge, right sides together and sew the waistband with small stitches to the skirt.

   

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At the back part shirr fabric by pulling the threads firmly. Sew fold by fold to the waistband very closely together.
Sew on hooks and eyes and hem the skirt – ready!