Tag Archives: Tailcoat

#0418 – The 1830´s Frock Coat – Part 1 – first considerations and point (1) to (4)

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Hi there! Roti from Black Snail Patterns here. I’m thrilled to announce that we’re giving our popular 1830s Frock Coat sewing pattern a major upgrade. This classic garment has long been a favorite among historical costume enthusiasts, and now we’re making it even better.

We’ve listened to your feedback and enhanced the pattern with clearer, more detailed instructions. This is not a beginner sewing pattern. However, we tried to explain tailoring terminology in a way that, with sufficient motivation and enthusiasm, everyone could understand.

Get the completely updated pattern here:

In this post, I’ll walk you through the updates we’re making:

  • Expanded step-by-step instructions
  • New troubleshooting tips for common challenges
  • Additional pictures for complex construction steps and period-accurate piped edges.

These improvements will help you achieve stunning results, whether you’re creating a historically accurate costume or adapting the Frock Coat for a contemporary twist.

Join me as we explore the refined details of this 19th-century classic and uncover the techniques that bring it to life. Let’s make historical sewing not just accessible, but truly enjoyable for everyone. Ready to dive in? Stay tuned as we delve into the fascinating details of this classic garment and the techniques used in its construction.

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#0418 – The 1830´s Frock Coat – Part 2 – point (5) to (9) 

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Part 1 – point (1) to (4)

(5) Time to prepare the fronts: Take the canvas of the front and lapel, and trim back the seam allowances along the abutting edges, to sew together the pieces edge to edge, using a zig-zag stitch. Stop sewing exactly at the collar notch (x). Underlay the seam with a strip of bias tape (cotton). This method reinforces the joint and helps distribute stress across the garment.

Take the fronts from the fashion fabric and stretch the shoulder. Sew the lapel to the front, right sides together, and stop sewing exactly at the collar notch (x). Press open the seam allowances, and trim back the seam allowances at the collar notch.

Baste the front canvas to the wrong side of the front, lining up the edges. Start stitching centered down the front and continue along the front edge, following the roll line until reaching the shoulder. Give the front some ease while basting by stretching the chest slightly and simulating the body with a tailor’s ham or a pillow. Lastly, baste along the armhole and the side seam. Baste about 2” (5cm) from all edges. 

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#0418 – The 1830´s Frock Coat – Part 3 – point (10) to (18) 

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Part 1 – point (1) to (4)

Part 2 – point (5) to (9)

(10) Sew the shoulder seam, right sides together, easing in the extra width of the back. Fold the front-facing and front canvas to the side while sewing. Press open the seam allowances and place the front canvas on top.

Let´s move over to some other tricky details with velvet and piping!

Mark the stitching line along the neckline, and baste together the layers (canvas and front) inside the seam allowance, right beside the stitching line. Trim back to 3/8” (1cm). Smooth out the front-facing over the shoulder seam towards the center back and mark the center back. Line up the front facings along that line, right sides together, and sew. Trim back the seam allowances and press open. That was the easy part.

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Men’s Tailcoat about 1800 – Part 1 – Getting started, steps (1) – (2)

The last garment missing to complete our men´s wardrobe is the Tailcoat. Again, this blog post will supplement the sewing instructions for my pattern. The sewing techniques described in the instructions will follow the construction methods seen on extant garments as much as possible, with some extra information and pictures here.

Grab the sewing pattern here!

Please be aware, that this is a hand-sewing pattern, all long seams can be sewn by machine, but many steps can be only done by hand. Some steps are quite tricky, even for an experienced sewer, some steps are unfamiliar compared to modern sewing techniques.

I´m going to show you the making of a double-breasted Tailcoat of the early 19th with many of the typical characteristics of these days. The body has three seams only, a center back seam, two back side seams, moved wide into the back, and no waist seam. Front and back tails are sewn together along the back side seam, pleated into a backward opening fold. The pocket opening is hidden inside these folds. The back opens into a vent beneath the waist. 

The double-breasted front ends about 1” above the natural waistline, showing the waistcoat underneath.  Breast padding supports the front and no shoulder pads are installed. The sleeves are pretty long, reaching the basal thumb joint, and finishing with a cuff. All the extra width at the sleeve head is gathered at the front. The collar features the typical m-notch. The body is lined with polished cotton fabric. The front facings are extended to meet at the center back.

The edges of non-fraying wool fabrics like felted wool will be left raw. When working with a fraying fabric, I recommend sewing the tailcoat in a more “modern” way.

The first possibility would be to line up the top and bottom layers, wrong sides together. Then turn the seam allowances under and sew all edges with a slip stitch, described in this blog post of my Romantic Tailcoat: https://patterns.bplaced.net/blog/1840s-tailcoat-part-4-1840er-tailcoat-teil-4/

The second possibility is even more modern, sewing collar and lapels with the right sides together and then turning the right side out, as usual nowadays: https://patterns.bplaced.net/blog/an-1830s-frock-coat-part-1-ein-1830er-gehrock-teil-1/

A third (for moderate fraying fabrics) would be to turn under the seam allowances of the top layer, trim back the seam allowance of the bottom layer to the net, and slip or fell stitch the bottom layer in place:

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1840s Tailcoat Part 4

Collar and Sleeves 

I basted together all layers along neckline; that means the basic layer is the top itself, then along the front neckline the interlining and along the back neckline the cotton lining. The seam allowances of the facings are already turned in and the edge basted to the stitching line. I prepared the collar with canvas pad stitched to the fashion fabric. With the hot iron, I stretched the top and bottom edges and pressed in the roll line.

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