Men’s Tailcoat about 1800 – Part 4 – Steps (9) – (12)

Part 3: Steps (7) – (8)

Let’s continue with step (9), the sleeves.

(9) Sew the sleeve seams from the fashion fabric and lining, right sides together, and leave a vent at the back seam. Press open the seam allowances. Gather the sleeve along the sleeve head and press carefully into shape. In the first picture, you can see the sleeve lining cut with extra ease at the seams and the armpit as described on page 4 of the instructions.

Take the cuff and fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press the edge and reopen. Line up the cuff with the bottom edge of the sleeve, matching the marks, and sew. Don´t catch the seam allowances of the vent. Press open and, notch the seam allowances to avoid bulk as shown.

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Men´s Regency Fall Front Breeches around 1800 Part 1 – Step (1) – (3)

No chance to relax, to complete the men’s wardrobe we need breeches!

Again, this blog post is just an addition to complete the instructions for my sewing pattern with more pictures.

(1) Let´s start with cutting the fabric! Don´t be afraid of the weird looking pattern with no inseam and the legs pointing outward. If wanted add the inseam, the line is marked on the pattern, but don´t try to straighten the legs, they give the width needed for a comfortable fit. Compared to Georgian breeches, the volume at the buttocks is significantly reduced, but still more than most of us are used to from modern pants. The pattern is based on an extant sewing pattern from 1796.

Punching holes on the pattern for accurate markings on the fabric.
thread tracing for accurate markings
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Men´s Regency Fall Front Breeches around 1800 Part 3 – Step (10) – (14)

Part 2 – Step (4) – (9)

(10) The gusset and waitband lining:

Trim back the seam allowances, they are to wide here on this picture.
Cover the raw seam allowances with the waistband lining.
The front area of the waistband, don´t sew the pocket, just catch the back of the pocket when felling down the lining. Sew with the “point à rabattre sous la main” along the front and top edge.
Sew the eyelets right beside the gusset.
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