Men’s Tailcoat about 1800 – Part 2 – Steps (3) – (6)

Part 1: General considerations and steps (1) – (2)

(3) Baste the front canvas to the wrong side of the front, lining up the edges.

Start stitching up the front, and continue along the roll line until reaching the shoulder. Then down the chest, giving some ease by stretching the chest slightly, simulating the body with a tailors ham or a pillow. Last along the armhole and the side seam followed by the curved edge. Baste about 2” (5cm) from all edges.

Mark the seamline on the canvas along the front and bottom edge, as well as along the lapel and neckline. Mark the roll line. Pad stitch the lapel, starting about ¾” (2cm) behind the roll line, folding the lapel over your hand’s edge to give it the right shape. Stop stitching just before reaching the marked seamline.

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Men’s Tailcoat about 1800 – Part 3 – Steps (7) – (8)

Part 2: Steps (3) – (6)

(7) Line up the pockets with the front and back, right sides together, matching the marks (2) and (3), and sew with a 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Press the pockets towards the side.

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Men’s Tailcoat about 1800 – Part 4 – Steps (9) – (12)

Part 3: Steps (7) – (8)

Let’s continue with step (9), the sleeves.

(9) Sew the sleeve seams from the fashion fabric and lining, right sides together, and leave a vent at the back seam. Press open the seam allowances. Gather the sleeve along the sleeve head and press carefully into shape. In the first picture, you can see the sleeve lining cut with extra ease at the seams and the armpit as described on page 4 of the instructions.

Take the cuff and fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press the edge and reopen. Line up the cuff with the bottom edge of the sleeve, matching the marks, and sew. Don´t catch the seam allowances of the vent. Press open and, notch the seam allowances to avoid bulk as shown.

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Men´s Regency Fall Front Breeches around 1800 Part 1 – Step (1) – (3)

No chance to relax, to complete the men’s wardrobe we need breeches!

Again, this blog post is just an addition to complete the instructions for my sewing pattern with more pictures.

(1) Let´s start with cutting the fabric! Don´t be afraid of the weird looking pattern with no inseam and the legs pointing outward. If wanted add the inseam, the line is marked on the pattern, but don´t try to straighten the legs, they give the width needed for a comfortable fit. Compared to Georgian breeches, the volume at the buttocks is significantly reduced, but still more than most of us are used to from modern pants. The pattern is based on an extant sewing pattern from 1796.