Sew with large stitches along the edge of the pant legs and gather. Prepare knee straps. Fold pieces lengthwise, right sides together, sew along short edges, and turn in the seam allowance of inner part while sewing. Turn inside out, press. Sew knee strap to the pant legs, at the inside sew on straps by hand.
Close darts, close crotch seam, either as a flat felled seam or as French seam. Prepare waistband: Fold in seam allowances and press, fold straps lengthwise, right sides together, and sew along short edges. Turn inside out. Pin the waistband to the trousers, fold all darts towards the center back, sew through all layers.
Mark the position of buttonholes and sew, sew on buttons.
Days are becoming shorter, and the high summer temperatures of this year passed. Yes, it became October. Nevertheless, a little ride with my old bicycle was planned. The costume is nearly complete with a skirt, blouse, jacket, gaiters and hat, just fitting bloomers are missing. Here comes a little tutorial for bloomers, loosely based on an original from the Metropolitan Museum: http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI55.41.5b_F.jpg The bloomers have a closed crotch seam, they will be closed with buttons at the waistband. The knee straps are closed with buttons too.
Prepare button stays: Fold straps for the button stay lengthwise, right sides together. Sew along one of the short edges. Trim seam allowance, turn inside out, and press. Open the strap again and pin it to the back trouser, just with one layer, and sew. Clip seam allowance of back trousers at the end of the seam. Fold inside the loose SM, fold the button stay over the seam, and pin it to the trouser so that the edge will overlap the seam a little bit. Sew from the right side exactly along the seam.
Prepare straps for buttonhole facing: fold up seam allowance of the lower edge and sew to front trouser. Close side seams respecting marks. Fold in the seam allowance of the buttonhole facing, fold over the edge and stitch down. Perform the side seam as a flat felled seam. Trim back the seam allowance of the front trouser, fold over the seam allowance of the back trouser and stitch down. Line up button stays and buttonhole facing and stitch together at the end of the fly. Sew the inner seams of the bloomers. Sew seam either as a flat felled seam or as a French seam.
I finished my Romantic Era dress already two years ago, but there was still something missing: a bonnet.
For the construction of the pattern take a wig head and build the form of the bonnet with paper. Then trim the paper where needed or ad paper with adhesive tape. If the bonnet has the desired shape, copy the pattern and adjust asymmetries. Build the bonnet once again from paper or board and do last adjustments if needed.
Now cut the pieces from buckram. I use round reed instead of wire to strengthen the seams because I think it keeps the shape better. Sew the reed with a zigzag stitch at the edges, the brim is reinforced with additional bars of reed. Now join all pieces by hand.
Cover the bonnet with flannel fabric, so later you won´t see the raw buckram through your top cloth. Cover the hat with your desired top cloth e.g. Silk taffeta, and decorate as desired.
Do you think constructing the pattern by yourself is quite complicated? Visit my Etsy-Shop, there you will find the pattern with detailed and illustrated sewing instructions. A pelerine collar which was popular during the Romantic era is included.
In this tutorial, I want to show you, how to sew a patch pocket for a Victorian bustle dress. You can see these pockets on several extant dresses, house dresses, as well as walking dresses, and of course on fashion plates. But what were these pockets for? Years ago, when I started my sewing pattern business I thought to hold a parasol. But that seems to be wrong. They maybe were meant to hold a handkerchief, a fan or just for decoration, as there are now visible signs of wear inside and outside the pockets on extant dresses. Visit this great article for more details. https://brokecostumer.blogspot.com/2016/02/that-mysterious-pocket.html?fbclid=IwAR1jeTo3wuViCpFIlyFCTMpjn-ph8oKwpQ2yoI_BS6Pv1xu1iKfA3_HBPdA
Draft the pattern on a piece of paper, ad seam allowance just at the sides.
Cut from upper fabric and lining. The two layers will be treated as one. Lower the tension of your upper thread and sew with a long running stitch along the horizontal lines and along the top and bottom edges. Shirr fabric, at the bottom from 20cm to 12cm, at the top from 32cm to 24cm, and along the horizontal stitching too. I decided to add a lace trim before shirring the fabric.
Cut a strip of fabric on the straight grain, fold like you would fold a bias tape, and cut to parts with a length of 15cm, 19cm, 23cm and 27cm. I added more trimmings first. Open your folded strips of fabric and pin them in place. Sew along the fold line. Fold your strip again and sew the open edge with invisible stitches to the pocket. At the top and bottom fold the strip over the edge and sew to the back side.
If desired trim with lace all around the edges.
Sew pocket to your overskirt. The first edge you can do with your sewing machine, the bottom, and the second side sew by hand.
Making a piping tape is easy. You can make it out of nearly any fabric and color desired for your project. Depending on the diameter and rigidity of the cord you become piping tapes for different uses.
Take a stripe of fabric on the bias, about 4cm wide. Lay your cord on top of the left side and fold it. Pin the cord in place and sew with the zipper foot tightly along the cord. Ready!
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