(8) Die Seitennaht rechts auf rechts schließen, exakt von Punkt (3) bis Punkt (4) nähen, die Mehrweite am Rückteil zwischen den Markierungen einhalten. Während des Nähens das Futter zur Seite falten, die Einlage des Rückens wird mitgefasst, an der Schulter bei Punkt (3) keine Nahtzugaben mitfassen! Nur die Nahtzugabe des Rückteils schräg Richtung Punkt (4) einschneiden und die Nahtzugaben der Seitennaht auseinander bügeln.
(10) Den Ärmel entsprechend der Markierungen rechts auf rechts in das Armloch einsetzen. Den Ärmel erst heften, dann nähen. Dabei wird sowohl am Oberteil, als auch am Ärmel nur der Oberstoff vernäht, Futter und Einlage werden zur Seite gefaltet. An Punkt (3) muss genau gearbeitet werden, die Nahtzugaben werden hier nicht mitgenäht. Für genaues Arbeiten am Besten 2-3cm vor und nach Punkt (3) mit der Hand nähen, danach die Nahtzugaben am Rückteil V-förmig einschneiden und mit ein paar lockeren Stichen fixieren, damit es hier keinen Knubbel gibt.
It´s time to revise another pattern, the Turtleneck Dress. The design contained the skirt and the blouse; I think it gave the impression to be too complicated to be sewn easily. The fact was that few people were interested in that pattern, although it offered a lot. For some years I was thinking of just dividing the pattern into skirt and top, but I wanted to add something extra and new, especially since the skirt seemed too simple. So time flies and at some point, the ideas come by themselves.
The new pattern #0916 now offers the skirt in two variations, including an underskirt, cut the same way as the skirt (perfectly fitting underneath pattern #0414). The top will come as an extra pattern in a few months.
Let´s start sewing! I´m just showing how to sew View B and C, because most steps are the same, it’s just that View B and C need some extra considerations. Again, the blog post is intended as a supplement to the pattern, trying to show some different techniques and options on how to sew the skirt.
(1) We always start with cutting all pieces from fabric and lining. Take care of the grainline and don´t forget to add 6” (15cm) to the bottom edge of the ruffle pieces.
View B will not make difficulties, View C, with the ruffle, cut on the bias is a bit tricky, especially when using an asymmetrical checked fabric as I did. I first cut two 18” (45cm) wide bias strips and sewed them together along the center back, trying to pattern match as well as possible. Then I fold the strip along the later center back and placed my pattern pieces on top to cut to the shape needed. Don´t forget to transfer all the marks.
The last garment missing to complete our men´s wardrobe is the Tailcoat. Again, this blog post will supplement the sewing instructions for my pattern. The sewing techniques described in the instructions will follow the construction methods seen on extant garments as much as possible, with some extra information and pictures here.
Please be aware, that this is a hand-sewing pattern, all long seams can be sewn by machine, but many steps can be only done by hand. Some steps are quite tricky, even for an experienced sewer, some steps are unfamiliar compared to modern sewing techniques.
I´m going to show you the making of a double-breasted Tailcoat of the early 19th with many of the typical characteristics of these days. The body has three seams only, a center back seam, two back side seams, moved wide into the back, and no waist seam. Front and back tails are sewn together along the back side seam, pleated into a backward opening fold. The pocket opening is hidden inside these folds. The back opens into a vent beneath the waist.
The double-breasted front ends about 1” above the natural waistline, showing the waistcoat underneath. Breast padding supports the front and no shoulder pads are installed. The sleeves are pretty long, reaching the basal thumb joint, and finishing with a cuff. All the extra width at the sleeve head is gathered at the front. The collar features the typical m-notch. The body is lined with polished cotton fabric. The front facings are extended to meet at the center back.
The edges of non-fraying wool fabrics like felted wool will be left raw. When working with a fraying fabric, I recommend sewing the tailcoat in a more “modern” way.
The first possibility would be to line up the top and bottom layers, wrong sides together. Then turn the seam allowances under and sew all edges with a slip stitch, described in this blog post of my Romantic Tailcoat: https://patterns.bplaced.net/blog/1840s-tailcoat-part-4-1840er-tailcoat-teil-4/
The second possibility is even more modern, sewing collar and lapels with the right sides together and then turning the right side out, as usual nowadays: https://patterns.bplaced.net/blog/an-1830s-frock-coat-part-1-ein-1830er-gehrock-teil-1/
A third (for moderate fraying fabrics) would be to turn under the seam allowances of the top layer, trim back the seam allowance of the bottom layer to the net, and slip or fell stitch the bottom layer in place:
Part 1: General considerations and steps (1) – (2)
(3) Baste the front canvas to the wrong side of the front, lining up the edges.
Start stitching up the front, and continue along the roll line until reaching the shoulder. Then down the chest, giving some ease by stretching the chest slightly, simulating the body with a tailors ham or a pillow. Last along the armhole and the side seam followed by the curved edge. Baste about 2” (5cm) from all edges.
Mark the seamline on the canvas along the front and bottom edge, as well as along the lapel and neckline. Mark the roll line. Pad stitch the lapel, starting about ¾” (2cm) behind the roll line, folding the lapel over your hand’s edge to give it the right shape. Stop stitching just before reaching the marked seamline.
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