Category Archives: Tutorials

How to make a Fez

Download the pattern. Print with 100% scale and join the two pattern pieces. The original pattern size is for a 56cm head circumference.

Part1, Part2

Material needed:

piece of buckram
reed
red wool fabric
lining fabric
tassel (klick for tutorial)
waxed cotton thread
grosgrain ribbon

First cut top and crown from fabric and lining with seam allowances.

From buckram cut top with seam allowance all the way around, the crown without seam allowances at the top and bottom edge, leave seam allowance at the back for joining.

Transfer marks for the reed exactly. Use two rows of reed at the top, stay within the markings that the top fits better inside the crown. The reed can be sewn along the edges by hand or by machine with a zigzag stitch. Shift joints of the two rows for more stability.

At the crown place four bars of reed then close the crown. The seam has to overlap at center back that you won´t see it later at the finished bonnet, overstitch both edges. Sew two rows of reed to the inside of the bottom edge of the crown, shift joints as you did before.

Clip seam allowance of the top and insert top to the crown. Join with hand stitches with a waxed cotton thread.

Line up fabric top with the buckram and pin. Close fabric crown at the center back, press open seam allowances. At the top edge fold seam allowance (1cm) towards inside and press. Pin crown to the top respecting marks and sew with small stitches with a matching thread.

At the bottom edge fold excess fabric towards inside and sew through all layers with nearly invisible pick stitches.

Prepare tassel and sew to the center top.

Sew together the lining pieces and put into the hat, sew along the bottom edge. Place a grosgrain ribbon to the inside of the bottom edge and join with small stitches.

Finished!

How to make a knotted Tassel

Take piece of cardboard or anything else suitable for the length of your tassel. Wrap thread around the cardboard several times. Cut one side, make a knot with an extra thread at the center.

Divide into four braids, knot like shown on the diagram.

Prepare a cord and knot the loose ends. Insert the cord before you tighten the tassel knot. Take a thread and wrap several times around the tassel. Secure end of that thread with a knot and some stitches with a needle. Trim tassel evenly.

Finished!

Skirt fastening with hooks and eyes for sheer fabrics

To prevent showing casting stitches on the outside of the fabric French seams or flat felled seams are used to join sheer fabrics. I´ll show you a fastening for a skirt with a placket to be closed with hooks and eyes. Of course it can be used with heavier fabrics too.

Fold the placket lengthwise right sides together. Sew along the bottom edge and along the long edge. Trim seam allowance, turn inside out and press. The width now should be the desired width of the placket e.g. 1 5/8” (4cm) + 5/8” (1,5cm). On the pic you see an overlock casted placket for comparison.

Mark seam allowance (5/8” (1,5cm)) at the right side of the placket and line up with the skirt edge, right sides together. Sew together close to the edge; stop about 5/8” (1,5cm) away from the bottom edge of the placket. Unfold the placket, mark position of eyes and sew them to the placket by hand so that they ride out just a little bit the sewing line.

Sew the facing to the other edge of the skirt. Line up with the edge, right sides together, fold up seam allowance of the bottom edge of the facing and sew.
Close skirt seam, line up edges exactly and pin together, fold away placket and facing, sew. The seam ends a little bit above the facing seam, take care not to catch the placket of facing while sewing.

Press open seam allowance; clip on the placket side towards seam end. Trim seam allowance on the side of the facing to ¼” (0,5) cm. Fold seam allowance of the placket side over the trimmed seam allowance of the facing side to get a flat felled seam, sew.
Fold skirt at the placket aside and mark position of eyes. Sew along the seam line. Skip eyes, lock seam before and after. If you want a continuous seam use your hand wheel for not breaking the needle. Press edge carefully.

Fold in raw edge of facing. Sew facing, bottom edge and Seam allowance of placket through all layers with small pointed stitches.
Mark position of hooks and sew only to the facing. If wanted sew along the facing edge with pointed stitches for more stability.
Sew waistband as usual.

Tutorial: How to sew bloomers Part1

Klick here for a free sewing pattern

Days are becoming shorter, and the high summer temperatures of this year passed. Yes, it became October. Nevertheless, a little ride with my old bicycle was planned. The costume is nearly complete with a skirt, blouse, jacket, gaiters and hat, just fitting bloomers are missing.
Here comes a little tutorial for bloomers, loosely based on an original from the Metropolitan Museum: http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI55.41.5b_F.jpg
The bloomers have a closed crotch seam, they will be closed with buttons at the waistband. The knee straps are closed with buttons too.

Prepare button stays: Fold straps for the button stay lengthwise, right sides together. Sew along one of the short edges. Trim seam allowance, turn inside out, and press. Open the strap again and pin it to the back trouser, just with one layer, and sew. Clip seam allowance of back trousers at the end of the seam.
Fold inside the loose SM, fold the button stay over the seam, and pin it to the trouser so that the edge will overlap the seam a little bit. Sew from the right side exactly along the seam.

Prepare straps for buttonhole facing: fold up seam allowance of the lower edge and sew to front trouser.
Close side seams respecting marks. Fold in the seam allowance of the buttonhole facing, fold over the edge and stitch down.
Perform the side seam as a flat felled seam. Trim back the seam allowance of the front trouser, fold over the seam allowance of the back trouser and stitch down. Line up button stays and buttonhole facing and stitch together at the end of the fly.
Sew the inner seams of the bloomers. Sew seam either as a flat felled seam or as a French seam.

My Romantic Era Bonnet

I finished my Romantic Era dress already two years ago, but there was still something missing: a bonnet.

For the construction of the pattern take a wig head and build the form of the bonnet with paper. Then trim the paper where needed or ad paper with adhesive tape. If the bonnet has the desired shape, copy the pattern and adjust asymmetries. Build the bonnet once again from paper or board and do last adjustments if needed.

Now cut the pieces from buckram. I use round reed instead of wire to strengthen the seams because I think it keeps the shape better.
Sew the reed with a zigzag stitch at the edges, the brim is reinforced with additional bars of reed.
Now join all pieces by hand.

Cover the bonnet with flannel fabric, so later you won´t see the raw buckram through your top cloth.
Cover the hat with your desired top cloth e.g. Silk taffeta, and decorate as desired.

Do you think constructing the pattern by yourself is quite complicated? Visit my Etsy-Shop, there you will find the pattern with detailed and illustrated sewing instructions. A pelerine collar which was popular during the Romantic era is included.

PDF Pattern #0615 Romantic Era Bonnet and Pelerine

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