When I decided to make a new 1830´s corset, I thought a lot about the lacing first. My old one had a back and front lacing; nevertheless, I had trouble to pull it over my hips or my head, struggling with all that mess of lacing cord. I asked my husband for help, but every closure more complex than a zipper causes him shaking and sweating hands. This year I´m going to join our summer ball alone, with no helping hand available. Searching the internet, I found this interesting self-lacing corset:
Rose and tendril patterns where quite popular during the 1830´s, printed on cotton or as appliqués on dresses. I´ll show you how I made the trim for the 1830´s green silk ball gown. Continue reading
Collar and Sleeves
I basted together all layers along neckline; that means the basic layer is the top itself, then along the front neckline the interlining and along the back neckline the cotton lining. The seam allowances of the facings are already turned in and the edge basted to the stitching line. I prepared the collar with canvas pad stitched to the fashion fabric. With the hot iron, I stretched the top and bottom edges and pressed in the roll line.
The Tails / Die Schößchen
Let´s continue with this picture: this are the back parts already sewn together. You can see the seam allowance of the vent turned in and catch stitched to fix it. You will see small stitches on the right fabric side, but that doesn´t matter, it was usual on men´s clothing during the Regency and Romantic period.
Let´s continue with the front facing. For the pattern I joined the pattern piece of the front and the back. At the back piece I drew a curved line from the center back to the side seam and cut. Placed on top of my fashion fabric and cut with some more seam allowance at the neckline. I didn´t close the dart at the facing. Now the facing will reach to the center back as you can see on this tailcoat: https://www.augusta-auction.com/component/auctions/?view=lot&id=4509&auction_file_id=8
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