Category Archives: General

Reconstructions of Victorian Drawers

When I was a child I often visited flea markets with my mother. She loved grubbing though masses of bedclothes and all that old linen stuff. That times I knew nothing to do with that things. So we have a lot of hidden treasures like old victorian drawers at home. The drawers where overworked though the years, the crotch seam closed and an elastic waistband added.


After drawing the pattern and scaling down (the owner must have been quite corpulent) it´s time to sew.

Gather the cotton lace and pin it to the lower edge of the pants legs left sides together. Gather a little bit more at the corners.

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Trim seam allowance and press towards the pant. For casting the raw edges prepare a strip of fabric, fold in seam allowance. Width of the strap is about 1″. Mark edges and fold the strap according to the angle of the corners. Pin strap to the lower edge of the pant covering the seam allowance and topstitch.

Close pant legs with a French seam.

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Lay pant legs on top of each other at the front edge and sew together at a length of 4″. Gather along the upper edge and sew to waistband. At the short edges of the waistband insert a twill tape for closing the drawers.

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Drawers

 

 

Tutorial: How to sew bloomers Part2

Click here for the free sewing pattern

 

Sew with large stitches along the edge of the pant legs and gather.
Prepare knee straps. Fold pieces lengthwise, right sides together, sew along short edges, and turn in the seam allowance of inner part while sewing. Turn inside out, press. Sew knee strap to the pant legs, at the inside sew on straps by hand.

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Close darts, close crotch seam, either as a flat felled seam or as French seam.
Prepare waistband: Fold in seam allowances and press, fold straps lengthwise, right sides together, and sew along short edges. Turn inside out. Pin the waistband to the trousers, fold all darts towards the center back, sew through all layers.

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Mark the position of buttonholes and sew, sew on buttons.

My Romantic Era Bonnet

I finished my Romantic Era dress already two years ago, but there was still something missing: a bonnet.

For the construction of the pattern take a wig head and build the form of the bonnet with paper. Then trim the paper where needed or ad paper with adhesive tape. If the bonnet has the desired shape, copy the pattern and adjust asymmetries. Build the bonnet once again from paper or board and do last adjustments if needed.

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Now cut the pieces from buckram. I  use round reed instead of wire to strengthen the seams because I think it keeps the shape better.
Sew the reed with a zigzag stitch at the edges, the brim is reinforced with additional bars of reed.
Now join all pieces by hand.


Cover the bonnet with flannel fabric, so later you won´t see the raw buckram through your top cloth.
Cover the hat with your desired top cloth e.g. Silk taffeta, and decorate as desired.

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Do you think constructing the pattern by yourself is quite complicated? Visit my Etsy-Shop, there you will find the pattern with detailed and illustrated sewing instructions. A pelerine collar which was popular during the Romantic era is included.

PDF Pattern #0615 Romantic Era Bonnet and Pelerine

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How to make a piping tape

Making a piping tape is easy. You can make it out of nearly any fabric and color desired for your project. Depending on the diameter and rigidity of the cord you become piping tapes for different uses.
Take a stripe of fabric on the bias, about 4cm wide. Lay your cord on top of the left side and fold it. Pin the cord in place and sew with the zipper foot tightly along the cord. Ready!

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Thread bar

A nearly invisible way to close a garment is to use a thread bar instead of a metal eyelet.


Double up your thread, begin from the back to hide the knot, make a stitch in the desired width of your bar. Repeat till you have four threads, loose the threads a little bit to get a nice result.
Overcast the threads with a narrow buttonhole stitch, at the end stitch through to the back side and secure your thread with some stitches.

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