Schlagwort-Archive: elegant

#0418 – The 1830´s Frock Coat – Part 1 – first considerations and point (1) to (4)

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Hi there! Roti from Black Snail Patterns here. I’m thrilled to announce that we’re giving our popular 1830s Frock Coat sewing pattern a major upgrade. This classic garment has long been a favorite among historical costume enthusiasts, and now we’re making it even better.

We’ve listened to your feedback and enhanced the pattern with clearer, more detailed instructions. This is not a beginner sewing pattern. However, we tried to explain tailoring terminology in a way that, with sufficient motivation and enthusiasm, everyone could understand.

Get the completely updated pattern here:

In this post, I’ll walk you through the updates we’re making:

  • Expanded step-by-step instructions
  • New troubleshooting tips for common challenges
  • Additional pictures for complex construction steps and period-accurate piped edges.

These improvements will help you achieve stunning results, whether you’re creating a historically accurate costume or adapting the Frock Coat for a contemporary twist.

Join me as we explore the refined details of this 19th-century classic and uncover the techniques that bring it to life. Let’s make historical sewing not just accessible, but truly enjoyable for everyone. Ready to dive in? Stay tuned as we delve into the fascinating details of this classic garment and the techniques used in its construction.

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#0418 – The 1830´s Frock Coat – Part 2 – point (5) to (9) 

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Part 1 – point (1) to (4)

(5) Time to prepare the fronts: Take the canvas of the Vordertteil und Revers, and trim back the seam allowances along the abutting edges, to sew together the pieces edge to edge, using a zig-zag stitch. Stop sewing exactly at the collar notch (x). Underlay the seam with a strip of bias tape (cotton). This method reinforces the joint and helps distribute stress across the garment.

Nimm das Vorderteile from the fashion fabric and stretch the shoulder. Sew the lapel to the front, right sides together, and stop sewing exactly at the collar notch (x). Press open the seam allowances, and trim back the seam allowances at the collar notch.

Hefte die vordere Einlage auf die linke Seite des Vordertteil, lining up the edges. Start stitching centered down the front and continue along the front edge, following the roll line until reaching the shoulder. Give the front some ease while basting by stretching the chest slightly and simulating the body with a tailor’s ham or a pillow. Lastly, baste along the armhole and the side seam. Baste about 2” (5cm) from all edges. 

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#0418 – The 1830´s Frock Coat – Part 3 – point (10) to (18) 

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Part 1 – point (1) to (4)

Part 2 – point (5) to (9)

(10) Näh das Schulternaht, right sides together, easing in the extra width of the back. Fold the front-facing and front canvas to the side while sewing. Press open the seam allowances and place the front canvas on top.

Let´s move over to some other tricky details with velvet and piping!

Mark the stitching line along the Halsausschnitt, and baste together the layers (canvas and front) inside the seam allowance, right beside the stitching line. Trim back to 3/8” (1cm). Smooth out the Vorderteilbeleg over the shoulder seam towards the center back and mark the center back. Line up the front facings along that line, right sides together, and sew. Trim back the seam allowances and press open. That was the easy part.

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#0316 Männer Fahrradhose Teil 1 - Schritt 1- 5

After updating the Norfolk Jacket, we’re shifting our focus to the breeches pattern, with an upcoming blog post dedicated to its update. Traditional trousers tailoring isn’t as straightforward as it may seem; it took me several years to master, and now I’m excited to offer you a solid foundation for your projects.

For further research, numerous preserved tailor’s books and magazines from that era are available as free PDF scans on the internet, providing additional insights into materials, cutting, and sewing techniques. The breeches featured in this sewing pattern are based on a pattern from the following book: W. D. F. Vincent (circa 1900): The Cutter’s Practical Guide to Jacket Cutting and Making, London.

The trousers featured in the sewing pattern have a fly front, a grown-on waistband, and are designed to be worn with buttoned suspenders. Additionally, the width of the trousers can be adjusted using straps and a buckle at the back.

Durability was paramount for garments in the 19th century, so trousers were reinforced at critical points. They were basted to the wrong side of the fabric first, then stitched in place during construction. I made some mistakes while constructing the breeches, so I ask for your patience as I share my pictures and work through any challenges I encountered during the sewing process.

For the side pockets, the sewing pattern offers two methods for pocket construction: easy-to-sew in-seam pockets and the traditional tailored approach, which will be discussed here in detail. The hip pockets are optional, they are typically absent in most extant trousers.

The sewing techniques outlined in the instructions closely mirror the construction methods observed in extant garments and found in extant tailoring books.

Let’s start sewing step by step, starting with a mock-up as usual!

(1) Schneide all the pieces from the fashion fabric, lining, and interfacing, as indicated on the cutting diagram.

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#0316 Men´s Cycling Breeches Part 2 – Steps (6) to (10)

Part 1 – Steps (1) to (5)

(6) Side pockets V1 (the accurate way with pattern pieces #5):

Line up the pocket facing (#5b) with the side edges of the top and undersides, right sides together, matching marks (1) and (2). Sew exactly between the marks with a seam allowance of 1/2” (1,3cm) – please ignore the wrong position and material of the interlining, I replaced that later. Trim back the seam allowance of the facing only, slanted at the end of stitching, to reduce bulk, and fold to the side.

Line up the top and undersides along the side seam, right sides together, matching the marks and sew with a seam allowance of 5/8” (1,5cm). Sew from the top, until reaching mark (4), skipping the pocket opening between (1) and (2) . Notch the seam allowance of the undersides at mark towards the end of stitching and press open the seam allowances.

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