Victorian Skirted Jacket around 1890 with leg-o-mutton sleeves Sewing Pattern #0520 Size US 8-30 (EU 34-56)
This is a digital sewing pattern for a late Victorian winter jacket worn from 1890 to 1900
This sewing pattern is loosely based on extant jackets and illustrations published in several fashion magazines from 1890 to 1900.
The double-breasted jacket has huge leg-o-mutton sleeves, fold into box pleats to fit the armhole - View A. If wanted, the large sleeves can be replaced by the smaller lining sleeves - View B. The tight-fitting jacket offers enough ease to be worn over a blouse and a vest, but less than a modern jacket or coat.
A padded and quilted lining at the bodice and sleeves provides warmth on cold winter days, the skirt or peplum part is just lined with a single layer.
The front and collar are interfaced with hair canvas, alternatively a mid to heavyweight linen can be used. The canvas is pad stitched to the lapel and collar, a technique still used today in tailoring men’s jackets.
The jacket can be worn with or without a corset underneath and is also suitable for historybounding, cosplay or steampunk projects.
The pattern comes with detailed and illustrated sewing instructions in English and German. It is a multi size pattern, you can choose between US 8-18 (EU 34-44) and US 20-30 (EU 46-56). A seam allowance of 5/8" (1,5cm) is inculded in my patterns.
Recommended fabrics:
Fashion fabric: sturdy jacket or coat fabrics from wool
or wool blend
Bodice lining: padded and quilted lining fabric
Skirt / Peplum lining: plain lining fabrics
Interfacing back bodice: midweight (polished) cotton
Front interfacing + collar: hair canvas or heavyweight linen
Flatlining (optional): silk organza
Skill: Pro
Size: EU 34-56 / US 8-30
Yardage: Size US 8-18 (EU 34-44):
View A: 4.5yds. (4m) with a width of 51“ (130cm)
View B: 2.8yds. (2.5m) with a width of 51“ (130cm)
Bodice lining: 1.8 yds. (1.6m) with a width of 51“ (130cm)
View A skirt lining: 1.5yds. (1,3m) with a width of 51“ (130cm)
View B peplum lining: 0.9yds. (0,8m) with a width of 51“ (130cm)
Interfacing back bodice: 0.5yds. (0.5m) with a width of 51“ (130cm)
Hair canvas: 1yd (0,9m) with a width of 36“ (90cm)
Flatlining (optional): same as View A or B
6 buttons Ø 1“ (2,5cm), 1 button Ø 5/8“ (1,5cm)
Batting
Belt buckle for View A
Size US 20-30 (EU 46-56):
View A: 5yds. (4.6m) with a width of 51“ (130cm)
View B: 3.4yds. (3.1m) with a width of 51“ (130cm)
Bodice lining: 1.9 yds. (1.7m) with a width of 51“ (130cm)
View A skirt lining: 2yds. (1.8m) with a width of 51“ (130cm)
View B peplum lining: 1.3yds. (1.2m) with a width of 51“ (130cm)
Interfacing back bodice: 0.5yds. (0.5m) with a width of 51“ (130cm)
Hair canvas: 1.2yds (1.1m) with a width of 36“ (90cm)
Flatlining (optional): same as View A or B
6 buttons Ø 1“ (2,5cm), 1 button Ø 5/8“ (1,5cm)
Batting
Belt buckle for View A