{"id":1947,"date":"2019-07-05T12:57:52","date_gmt":"2019-07-05T10:57:52","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/?p=1947"},"modified":"2022-06-30T12:57:58","modified_gmt":"2022-06-30T10:57:58","slug":"how-to-get-small-regular-pleats-on-an-17th-or-18th-century-skirts-wie-bekommt-man-kleine-und-regelmaessige-falten-fuer-roecke-des-17-und-18-jahrhunderts","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/?p=1947","title":{"rendered":"How to get small, regular pleats on 17th or 18th century skirts"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>For small folds (minimum \u00bc\u201d (5mm)), measure the\ndistance of the waistband or bodice section, where you want to attach the\nskirt. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Let\u00b4s say 35cm for an 18<sup>th<\/sup> century robe a\nl\u00b4Anglaise. Determine the width of folds and therefore the number of folds \u2013\nwith a width of 5mm there would be 70 folds each side (that makes a total of\n140! folds). <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Measure along the top edge of the skirt, from center back to the front edge, subtract about 1\u201d from this measurement (e.g. 138cm-2cm=136cm). Divide this measurement by the number of folds (136cm\/70=1,9cm). This is how much fabric each folds contains. Transfer that measurements to the wrong side of the top edge of the skirt. Mark the fold\u00b4s width (5mm) beside.  As a rule, the skirt width has to be minimum three times the distance at the bodice\/waistband.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In this sample I wanted to gather 45cm into 10cm, with pleats of 5mm. That means I divided 45cm by 20, that is 2,25cm for each fold.  On the picture above I marked this 2,25cm at the wrong fabric side along the top edge. On the picture below, I marked the fold\u00b4s width of 5mm beside.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"681\" src=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3415-1024x681.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1940\" srcset=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3415-1024x681.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3415-400x266.jpg 400w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3415-700x466.jpg 700w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3415-768x511.jpg 768w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3415-624x415.jpg 624w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3415.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Sew two rows of gathering stitches with a thicker thread on both sides of the seamline. Above you see the wrong side, below the right fabric side of the skirt with the gathering threads already stitched. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"621\" src=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3418-1024x621.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1941\" srcset=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3418-1024x621.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3418-400x243.jpg 400w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3418-700x425.jpg 700w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3418-768x466.jpg 768w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3418-624x379.jpg 624w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3418.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<!--more-->\n\n\n\n<p>Place the skirt on top of your working table with the right side up and pull the gathering threads to pleat the folds. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"805\" src=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3420-1024x805.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1942\" srcset=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3420-1024x805.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3420-400x314.jpg 400w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3420-700x550.jpg 700w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3420-768x604.jpg 768w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3420-624x490.jpg 624w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3420.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Pin in place every single fold. Re-measure your folds, if you plan fold with a width\nof 5mm, you must place 20 folds within 10cm. If you don\u00b4t have enough pins, make\ntwo rows of basting beside the gathering threads.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"654\" src=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3421-1024x654.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1943\" srcset=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3421-1024x654.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3421-400x255.jpg 400w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3421-700x447.jpg 700w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3421-768x490.jpg 768w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3421-624x399.jpg 624w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3421.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Turn around the skirt, now with the wrong side up, and\nsecure the folds along the bottom gathering thread with loose stitches. Just\ncatch the valley folds (mountain folds at the wrong fabric side).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"664\" src=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3423-1024x664.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1944\" srcset=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3423-1024x664.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3423-400x259.jpg 400w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3423-700x454.jpg 700w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3423-768x498.jpg 768w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3423-624x405.jpg 624w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3423.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Turn around the skirt again, with the right side up\nnow, and place the bodice or waistband on top along the seamline. Attach the\nskirt to the bodice\/waistband with a pointed back stitch, fix every single fold\nwhile sewing. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"616\" src=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3425-1024x616.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1945\" srcset=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3425-1024x616.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3425-400x240.jpg 400w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3425-700x421.jpg 700w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3425-768x462.jpg 768w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3425-624x375.jpg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>For 18<sup>th<\/sup> century gowns lay the extra width\nof 1\u201d (2-3cm) into a matching fold at the front edge. The seam allowance at the\ntop edge of the skirt will be left raw and pressed towards the skirt.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"581\" src=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3426-1024x581.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-1946\" srcset=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3426-1024x581.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3426-400x227.jpg 400w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3426-700x397.jpg 700w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3426-768x436.jpg 768w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3426-624x354.jpg 624w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/IMAG3426.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>For small folds (minimum \u00bc\u201d (5mm)), measure the distance of the waistband or bodice section, where you want to attach the skirt. Let\u00b4s say 35cm for an 18th century robe a l\u00b4Anglaise. Determine the width of folds and therefore the number of folds \u2013 with a width of 5mm there would be 70 folds each [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1963,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[38,1,6],"tags":[35,34,37,36],"class_list":["post-1947","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-18th-century-18-jahrhundert","category-allgemein","category-tutorials","tag-17th-century","tag-18th-century","tag-skirt-folds","tag-skirt-pleats"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1947","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1947"}],"version-history":[{"count":14,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1947\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5222,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1947\/revisions\/5222"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/1963"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1947"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1947"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1947"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}