{"id":1214,"date":"2017-05-19T09:01:09","date_gmt":"2017-05-19T07:01:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/?p=1214"},"modified":"2022-06-21T14:03:37","modified_gmt":"2022-06-21T12:03:37","slug":"1840s-tailcoat-part-3-1840er-tailcoat-teil-3","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/?p=1214","title":{"rendered":"1840s Tailcoat Part 3 \/ 1840er Tailcoat Teil 3"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>The Tails \/ Die Sch\u00f6\u00dfchen<\/p>\n<p><span lang=\"EN-US\" style=\"margin: 0px; font-family: 'Times New Roman',serif;\"><span style=\"color: #000000; font-size: medium;\">Let\u00b4s continue with this picture: this are the back parts already sewn together. You can see the seam allowance of the vent turned in and catch stitched to fix it. You will see small stitches on the right fabric side, but that doesn\u00b4t matter, it was usual on men\u00b4s clothing during the Regency and Romantic period. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/IMG_4527.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" size-medium wp-image-1047 aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/IMG_4527-300x147.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_4527\" width=\"300\" height=\"147\" srcset=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/IMG_4527-300x147.jpg 300w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/IMG_4527.jpg 700w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/IMG_4529.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" size-medium wp-image-1049 aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/IMG_4529-300x156.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_4529\" width=\"300\" height=\"156\" srcset=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/IMG_4529-300x156.jpg 300w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/IMG_4529.jpg 700w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><!--more--><\/p>\n<hr>\n<p><span lang=\"EN-US\" style=\"margin: 0px; font-family: 'Times New Roman',serif;\"><span style=\"color: #000000; font-size: medium;\">I sewed together fronts and back part, first along the side seam, stitching ends exactly at the waistline and pressed open the seam allowances. Then I&nbsp;sewed the folds and pressed them, the folds open towards the back, I notched&nbsp;the seam allowances&nbsp;were needed and fixed the folds with some stitches to&nbsp;the waistline. Now the back was lined with the cotton fabric; just a lining between the facing and the side seam is missing. I cut out a fitting piece from cotton fabric, turned in all seam allowances and slip stitched the Piece in place&nbsp;along the facing and side seam. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<hr>\n<p><span lang=\"EN-US\" style=\"margin: 0px; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman',serif;\"><span style=\"font-size: medium;\">This is the paper pattern of the tail lining. Front and back part of the tail taped together and with the fold closed. Cut out from the same fabric as the tailcoat. During the regency and romantic period, the tails were lined with the same fabric as the coat. If you would use a felted wool fabric the seam allowances of the tails back and front edges are turned in; the lining would be cut without seam allowance, lined up with the tails and the raw edges of the lining would be slip stitched to the back and front edge. The hem would be left raw. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #800080;\"><em><span lang=\"EN-US\" style=\"margin: 0px; color: black; font-family: 'Times New Roman',serif;\"><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"><br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/IMG_4537.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"  wp-image-1212 aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/05\/IMG_4537.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_4537\" width=\"300\" height=\"230\"><\/a><\/span><\/span><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n<hr>\n<p><span lang=\"EN-US\" style=\"margin: 0px; font-family: 'Times New Roman',serif;\"><span style=\"color: #000000; font-size: medium;\">As I used linen I decided to cut my lining with seam allowance. I lined up the lining with the tails, right sides together, and stitched along the front and bottom edge (with the fold closed). I trimmed the seam allowances, turned the inside out and pressed. Then I basted along all edges to preserve the edges while sewing the rest. At the back edge I turned in the seam allowance of the lining and slip stitched to the back edges of the top layer. At the linings top <\/span><span style=\"color: #000000; font-size: medium;\">&nbsp;<\/span><span style=\"color: #000000; font-size: medium;\">edge (waistline)&nbsp;I turned in the seam allowance too, basted everything in place and joined the front facing and the tail lining with a ladder stitch. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<p><span lang=\"EN-US\" style=\"margin: 0px; color: #800080; font-family: 'Times New Roman',serif;\"><span style=\"font-size: medium;\"><br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/IMG_4540.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\" size-medium wp-image-1057 aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/IMG_4540-300x200.jpg\" alt=\"IMG_4540\" width=\"300\" height=\"200\" srcset=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/IMG_4540-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/03\/IMG_4540.jpg 700w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<hr>\n<p>Next time I\u00b4ll Show you the collar&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/?p=1175\">Part 1<\/a>, <a href=\"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/?p=1191\">Part 2<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The Tails \/ Die Sch\u00f6\u00dfchen Let\u00b4s continue with this picture: this are the back parts already sewn together. You can see the seam allowance of the vent turned in and catch stitched to fix it. You will see small stitches on the right fabric side, but that doesn\u00b4t matter, it was usual on men\u00b4s clothing [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1171,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[28,15,6],"tags":[21],"class_list":["post-1214","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-1830s-tailcoat-biedermeier-frack","category-romantic-era","category-tutorials","tag-tailcoat"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1214","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1214"}],"version-history":[{"count":15,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1214\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5178,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1214\/revisions\/5178"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/1171"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1214"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1214"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1214"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}