{"id":1175,"date":"2017-05-01T21:11:30","date_gmt":"2017-05-01T19:11:30","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/?p=1175"},"modified":"2022-06-21T13:03:19","modified_gmt":"2022-06-21T11:03:19","slug":"a-1840s-linen-tailcoat-part-1-ein-1840er-leinen-tailcoat-teil-1","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/?p=1175","title":{"rendered":"A 1840\u00b4s Linen Tailcoat Part 1"},"content":{"rendered":"

Apart from trousers, shirts, waistcoats and collars my husband needed a jacket for our romantic period costume summer meeting. I already made a Frock Coat from quite heavy wool fabric, suitable for cold and rainy days. However, what to do if it\u00b4s going to be hot? Years ago, I made a regency tailcoat from wool broadcloth. He never wore willingly, except in the carnival when he was a vampire.
\nThere are other options than broadcloth and that\u00b4s linen. I decided to make him a linen tailcoat. I used the Frock Coat pattern and modified as needed, because it hat to fit closer. Fitting quite narrow at the waist I had to add some extra width at the skirt for the hips. This made me some problems with the pockets, but this was my fault. I couldn\u00b4t remember how to make a pocket, means a little bit of a black out. Thank god, the pocket flaps cover everything.<\/p>\n

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<\/p>\n

\n

First, let\u00b4s start with the fronts. The front is double breasted with no extra lapel. Therefore, I needed a dart to give the desired shape. At the interlining, I cut out the dart and closed it edge by edge with some cotton underneath to lay flat.<\/p>\n


\n\"IMG_4519\"<\/a>\"IMG_4520\"<\/a><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\n

The ready prepared front with pad-stitched lapel, cotton binding along the edges and roll line.<\/p>\n


\n\"IMG_4521\"<\/a><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\n

Next was to prepare the skirt. On the pictures you can see my ugly pocket, I don\u00b4t want to write much about that mess. The problem was to ease in the width of the skirt to fit the fronts along the waistline.<\/p>\n


\n\"IMG_4522\"<\/a>\"IMG_4523\"<\/a><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\n

Fronts and skirts joined.<\/p>\n


\n\"IMG_4526\"<\/a>\"IMG_4525\"<\/a><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\n

I reinforced the back with cotton fabric; that lining ends at waistline. I joined the backs along the center back stopping at the vent. Notched the seam allowance to the end of the stitching and turned in the seam allowances.<\/p>\n


\n\"IMG_4529\"<\/a>\"IMG_4528\"<\/a><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\n

Next I\u00b4ll show you the front facing and padding: Part 2<\/a><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Apart from trousers, shirts, waistcoats and collars my husband needed a jacket for our romantic period costume summer meeting. I already made a Frock Coat from quite heavy wool fabric, suitable for cold and rainy days. However, what to do if it\u00b4s going to be hot? Years ago, I made a regency tailcoat from wool […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1171,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[28,15,6],"tags":[21],"class_list":["post-1175","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-1830s-tailcoat-biedermeier-frack","category-romantic-era","category-tutorials","tag-tailcoat"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1175","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1175"}],"version-history":[{"count":14,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1175\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5174,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1175\/revisions\/5174"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/1171"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1175"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1175"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/patterns.bplaced.net\/blog\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1175"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}