Continuing my 1830s men´s pattern collection, it´s time for matching trousers, suitable to wear with the 1830´s Tailcoat and shirt. In general trousers are easier to sew than the coats, just some pocket details are more complex. I´ll show and explain that details her in this tutorial with lots of pictures. I choose the US size 38 (EU 48).
After cutting all pattern pieces, I marked the marks corresponding to the size chosen. Re-check your marks, the red arrow points on the mark I did wrong at the first time.
Cut all pieces from fabric and lining. The pocket bag is cut on fold fabric. All pictures are showing the left pocket!
Place the pocket facing on top of the pocket back and attach between the marks with a blanket stitch. A zigzag stitch serves as well, but we´re sewing 1830s trousers. Stay between the marks, you´ll see later why.
Take the sewing pattern of the pocket back and cut along line, indicating the front edge. Place on top of the pockt bag and trim back the edge. Mark the stitching line on the wrong side of the pocket bag to get a nice result later. Transfer the position of mark (1) and (2) to the front and back pocket bag.
Line up the topsides and the front pocket bag, right sides together, between mark (1) and (2) . Push back the fashion fabric about 1/16” (2mm) for the roll width needed, the corner marks have to meet. First pin, then baste in place. Stitch exactly between the marks. Notch the fashion fabric and pocket bag angled towards end of stitching, as shown on the picture. Trim back the seam allowance along the edge to about 1/4″ (5mm).
Turn the right side out. Press the edge, rolling the seam slightly out of sight toward the garment wrong side. Edgestitch (prick stitch) along the squared pocket edge between (1) and (2) to hold in place.
Fold just the topside upwards. Mark the stitching line along the short edge and sew to the facing only, pulling the pocket bag to the side while sewing. Stitching starts exactly at mark (2). Notch the seam allowance of the facing towards mark (2), following the edge of the seam allowance of the topside, trim back and press open. Fold the topsides downwards and check if everything lays flat and nice. Repeat all steps at mark (1). The corners will be bar-tacked for more strength later.
Sew the pocket bag, starting at the fold until reaching the side edge, and neaten the edges with an overcasting stitch (recommended for fine fashion fabrics and View B).
For a French seam, pull the bag through the pocket and line up the two layers wrong sides together. Sew with a seam allowance of ¼” (5mm), starting at the fold, around the curve, until reaching the mark (corner). Notch at the corner towards the end of stitching. Pull back the pocket bag through the pocket mouth and press. Sew again ¼” (5mm) beside the edge, leading the seam over the corner until reaching the side edge.
Line up the front and back trouser, right sides together, and sew the side seam. Don´t catch any pocketing. Press open the side seam, turn in the seam allowance of the pocket bag and fell stitch to the seam allowance of the side seam.
Sew the waistband to the trousers. Bar-tack the corners of the pocket through all layers, sewa button hole at the corner and sew on a fabric-covered button.