1830-40´s Corset

IMG_5243All tunnels stiched? Now it is time to add the cording. The technique is called Trapunto, that means you add the cords after stitching the tunnels. This is a time-consuming and exhausting work, nobody told it would be easy. You can avoid this step with adding each piece of cord after you stitched one side of the tunnel, then make the second seam beside the cord. The result will be smoother with the Trapunto technique.
For adding the cord, I threaded a blunt point needle with a strong buttonhole thread, make a couple of stitches through the end of the cord. To harden the cord´s end I used glue and let it dry for some hours.
Widen the holes with an awl. If you have problems pulling through the cord you can widen the tunnel with the awl first.
Pull the cord through the tunnel, the end should just slip into. Cut off the cord close to the fabric and shove the end back into the tunnel with your awl.







The sewing pattern includes seam allowance on the top and bottom edge too. To make the busk opening at the bottom edge, notch the seam allowance of the lining only toward the tunnel stitching. Turn in the seam allowance twice; fix the edge with a top stitch. After filling all tunnels with boning, baste along the bottom edge, mark the seam allowance and cut it off. I used a twill tape to bind the edges, bias binding was not common. At the center front at the busk opening attach the binding to the fashion fabric only, secure the corners with bar tacks. This step only works with hand sewing. To preserve the busk of slipping out, work hand-sewn eyelets into the top fabric and lining.







Attach the shoulder straps and baste the layers together. Cut off the seam allowance along the top edge of the corset. Attach a narrow tape at the inside of the corset 2cm beside the outer bust gusset.





Bind the edge with the same twill tape as you did with the bottom edge, don´t catch the narrow tape. At on the inside of the center front , work two eyelets into the twill tape and pull the narrow tape through. Sew the shoulder straps to the corset front.




Part 3

Part 1