Collar and Sleeves
I basted together all layers along neckline; that means the basic layer is the top itself, then along the front neckline the interlining and along the back neckline the cotton lining. The seam allowances of the facings are already turned in and the edge basted to the stitching line. I prepared the collar with canvas pad stitched to the fashion fabric. With the hot iron, I stretched the top and bottom edges and pressed in the roll line.
The Tails / Die Schößchen
Let´s continue with this picture: this are the back parts already sewn together. You can see the seam allowance of the vent turned in and catch stitched to fix it. You will see small stitches on the right fabric side, but that doesn´t matter, it was usual on men´s clothing during the Regency and Romantic period.
Let´s continue with the front facing. For the pattern I joined the pattern piece of the front and the back. At the back piece I drew a curved line from the center back to the side seam and cut. Placed on top of my fashion fabric and cut with some more seam allowance at the neckline. I didn´t close the dart at the facing. Now the facing will reach to the center back as you can see on this tailcoat: https://www.augusta-auction.com/component/auctions/?view=lot&id=4509&auction_file_id=8
Apart from trousers, shirts, waistcoats and collars my husband needed a jacket for our romantic period costume summer meeting. I already made a Frock Coat from quite heavy wool fabric, suitable for cold and rainy days. However, what to do if it´s going to be hot? Years ago, I made a regency tailcoat from wool broadcloth. He never wore willingly, except in the carnival when he was a vampire.
There are other options than broadcloth and that´s linen. I decided to make him a linen tailcoat. I used the Frock Coat pattern and modified as needed, because it hat to fit closer. Fitting quite narrow at the waist I had to add some extra width at the skirt for the hips. This made me some problems with the pockets, but this was my fault. I couldn´t remember how to make a pocket, means a little bit of a black out. Thank god, the pocket flaps cover everything.
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